To the Beach

Another week, another training session--this time in a beach town near Rabat. I wasn’t excited about going because I’m not a beach person so it had little appeal for me. When we got there, however, the temperature was just right, the days were sunny and the nights were cool. The white noise of the ocean waves was much more sleep-inducing than the crowing of roosters and barking of dogs that we’re used to. The plumbing worked, but only for three days, after which the water ran only when you didn’t need it. We both experienced what felt like an electric current when touching the shower hose, so when it stopped altogether, at least we weren’t going to be electrocuted. It doesn’t seem possible but ………this is Morocco.

It was fun to be together again with the youth volunteers who are a high energy group, always organizing activities. There were tournaments and contests, music and dancing, and of course swimming and lying on the beach. One interesting aspect of being with the whole group again was observing the social interactions. Just like high school, the popular kids still sit together in the lunchroom.

Much of the discussion during the week concerned the reorganization of Peace Corps Morocco. Since the Small Business Development and Environmental sectors will be eliminated in 2012, there was a predictable amount of anxiety about the rest of our service, since none of us will be replaced. I plan to change my focus to transferring my skills as much as possible and helping my co-op to maximize the use of assets they already have. There is no point in introducing something which can’t be accomplished or mastered in the time we have left.

After training we took a train to Rabat to spend the weekend. The weather was perfect—sunny, yet cool days. There we indulged in some of our favorite activities like eating bacon cheeseburgers at the American Club and chocolate sundaes at McDonalds. Normally we steer away from places like this when we travel, preferring to eat where the locals do, but after being here for nine months, it’s a welcome respite from all things Moroccan. We tried out the new tram system which was supposed to start in February but just got going. There is work to be done on the scheduling, but they are clean (for now) and fast so it’s a great way to get through traffic and travel about the city without needing to elbow our way into a taxi.

Going back to REK we traveled with two other PCVs. One is six feet tall and has long red hair and speaks Berber, making her an instant attraction to every male in the country. Our taxi driver was so taken with her that he invited us all to his house. The transit guys are usually friendly and helpful, but none has ever done this before. She stalled him off with the usual “inshallah” but he got out at his turnoff where his son was waiting to drive us the rest of the way—perhaps thinking his son could be more persuasive.

Summer is upon us, and the coolest place in the house is the rooftop. It’s also a great place to people watch. Earlier this year, a neighbor built two more stories on his house and now the family across the street from them is building another story on their house. This is the answer to no zoning—when someone spoils your view, build higher. From our rooftop, which now has a partially blocked view, I watched several sheep being herded into a house. Three got away and ran for it, but several kids coming home from school rounded them up and dragged them back in. I haven’t seen them since. Also from the rooftop, I counted 22 men and two women out and about in the town. This is normal—in Morocco the men own the streets and the cafes and the night.