Saturday, March 26, 2011

Spring is Here!


After a week of the coldest and wettest weather yet, spring arrived overnight. The trees are leafing out, birds are singing, wild flowers are blooming, and the roosters are crowing around the clock.

The women have cast off the blankets they wear as coats, except for those being used to tie a toddler on their backs.

Packs of children, laughing and screaming, run through the streets to release their pent-up energy. I went an entire day without wearing my coat in the house. The air fells softer and definitely warmer.

I know now that I can hang on through another winter.



Thursday, March 10, 2011

Working With Artisans


Yes, I am working here. My Peace Corps counterpart is Adwal Co-operative, a weaving co-operative. They even have a website, thanks to Lynn, the former PCV at http://adwalweaving.com . The co-op makes beautiful carpets and fabrics using traditional designs from their Berber roots. They have three vertical looms, two horizontal looms, knitting machines, a new outdoor workroom and showroom. Pile carpets called zrbya are woven in natural wool with the Beni Ourain abstract design of the region. Any of their products can be special ordered by sending them an e-mail in French or Arabic, or to me in English.
At this point, I’m still observing and trying to communicate. I go to the co-op so the women will become familiar with me and trust me, and to watch what they do and how they work. It’s fascinating to watch them weave patterns from memory passed down through generations. It’s clear to me that not only is weaving their work but also their social life.
Adwal Co-op has quality products, but is most in need of finding markets for them. Competition in carpet weaving is intense. So far my most productive work has been to secure three orders on-line, which is probably the best way to reach the American market. We are currently getting ready to attend Marche Maroc in Fes at the end of March. This is a craft fair established by Peace Corps volunteers and is held twice a year. I am helping the co-op with their product selection—items that will sell to tourists—after observing at the fair in Marrakesh that items which fit in a suitcase sold better. Just before Marche Maroc, a group of knitters from the UK is coming to the co-op for a workshop on natural wool dying followed by a traditional Moroccan lunch. We are also working with some people in Fes to put together day trips to our area since we are off the beaten track—no tourists pass through here—but in a scenic area with many interesting activities such as couscous rolling workshops, olive oil pressing, and hiking, in addition to the natural dye workshops. The plan is for them to visit the co-op showroom and buy a hand-woven carpet at a fair price without haggling in the souks. March is turning out to be a busy month. I keep waiting for all the down time we were told to expect. Maybe that comes when it’s too hot to move.